It comes in waves

Diary Entry from July 8^th– Nicaragua:
I just woke up on our 5^th day in Nicaragua. We spent all yesterday surfing. I feel so bruised and sore. We have had so many adventures here. This house is amazing a top the highest hill in our little cove. It overlooks the tree tops to a horseshoe of teal water that crashes on jagged rocks and our tiny beach. Across the peninsula, I can see Gigante where fishing boats gather right off shore.

It has been a very busy summer. So much has happened it’s taking me a little while to catch up and tell each story. Kevbot turned the big 3-0 in May, and we decided to plan something big. Adventure, surfing, and a remote beach were a must. Three of my best buds from high school came along to celebrate. I’ve known these lovely ladies over half my life, and I adore them to pieces.

While we’ve been traveling this whole year, Kevbot really hasn’t taken that much time off work. It was finally nice to have a whole week to enjoy what we love most- ADVENTURE! This vacation was the epitome of action packed.

Now I had been surfing for a month prior to Nicaragua, and I was getting pretty decent at riding the white water. However, none of the waves I was riding in San Diego could have prepared me for Amarillo Beach.

Those. Waves. Were. Scary!

We had hiked down to the beach, up the steep rocky slope into the jungle, on the dirt path around the peninsular, across the sandy beach into the small village of Gigante.

We continued on the dirt road that took us outside of the village and across a wooden rickety bridge, down a muddy path, up a steep climb, behind an old house where we rented two boards for $25/day. Back around the house and down the hill we carried the boards through the jungle and finally to the small Playa Amarillo.

I stood on the beach and watched as huge waves, double overhead, rose higher and higher and crash unmercifully into dark waters. I imagined them yanking the board from under me and shoving me to the sandy bottom. I imagined the fin slicing open my leg or head. I was frightened.

I put on a brave face and walked into the water. I unsteadily tried to position myself on the short board. My weight shifted back and forth as I tried to paddle. The water rumbled up around me and shot me towards the shore like a high speed water slide. The waves rocketed the board away from me and I tumbled underneath the white water. I breathlessly stumbled on shore and handed the board to Matt. Those waves were beyond my level and I knew it.

I nervously watched as Kevbot and Matt took their chance. Dark clouds gathered above the choppy waves, and I noticed only a few surfers still in the water. Most were gathered on the beach watching the waves. I guess that should have been a sign. We found out from a local surfer, a huge swell had come in and made this beginner friendly beach not so friendly.

Throughout this year, I’ve had many moments when I was faced with a situation that made me afraid or uncomfortable. But I’ve learned that the feeling is temporary, and the feeling is actually a good one. I need to embrace it. If my heart is pattering and my breath catches, it means something important is happening. All that is in my control is the choice. The choice to walk into the water or stay on the beach.

Don’t give in to your fears. If you do, you won’t be able to talk to your heart.
― Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist